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ILLUSTRATED MICHELIN GUIDE5 FOR THE VI5IT TO THE BATTLE-FIELDS
BATTLE-FIELDS OF THE MARNE 1914
THE OURGQ
CHANTILLY ^ SENLIS _ MEAUX
ILLUSTRATED MICHELIN GUIDES PARIS
MOTORISTS MAY APPLY TO THE ' BUREAU DE TOURISME MICHELIN 99, Boulevard Pereire — PARIS
For all particulars and advice
Hotels and motor-agents.
SSM. P^litial hotels, very luxurious. mii Firit-class hotels.
l>fl| Comfortable hotels, with modem, or modernised installation. 1*1*1 Plain but well-managed hotels. © Hotels where it is possible to lunch or dine well. 5" Small hotels or inns where good meals can be obtained.
COMPRESSED AIR
Agt de
Depot for ' bou- teilles d'air Ml- chelin ' for in- ( flation of tyres. Repairing Engineer. Maker's Agent. Garage and number of cars which it can con- tain.
U
Pit for repairs.
Petrol Depot.
Electric itation or instal- lation for recharging accumulators for light- ing.
Telephone and number.
Telegraphic address.
MEAUX (Seine-et-Mame).
£Sl de la Sirfene, 84 r. St-Nicola». Prices in 1914. Meals 1,25. 3,60. 3,50 Bed-room 3 to 12 Chauffeur 7,60 "& (wc) Garage free gl Shed free [J] f Sir4ne :f> 83. Si des Trois-Rois, 1 r. det Ursulines and 30 r. St-Rimy. Prices in 1914. Meals 1,25. 3,60. 3,50 Bed-room 2,50 Chauffeur 7 (wc) Shed 2] Inner courtyard free ^ 7f> 146. »^» MICHELIN STOCK (COMPRESSED A IR) Garage Central (A. Feillde^ 17-21 r. du Grand-Cerf. Agt de : Panhard, Rknaclt, dk Diow. ^
u © ® :F' 59.
— MICHELIN STOCK Auio-Qarage aeVneaux{E.y/ancB), 55-57 pi. du
Marche. Agt de : Dblahayk. ^ U © % 7> 84. SENLIS (Oise).
Iiil*l du Grand-Cerf, 47 r. de la Bepuhlique. Prices in 1914. Meals 1,26. 3,60. 3,50 (wine not included) Bed-room 4 to 10 Chauffeur 7 @ ^ ■^f (wo) Inner coach-house /ree OUT Grandcerf ^ 111. Q des Arines, 30 rue de Beauvais. Prices in 1914. Meals 0,75. 3. 3 Bed-room 2 to 5 Chauffeur 6 (wc) Inner coach-house [J] ott ^ 17. fT" MICHEUN STOCK Guinot, 8 pi. de la Halle. Stock : dk Dion. Agt de : Pkugkot. S] "U" :}<> 46.
— MICHELIN STOCK L. Buat and A. R^mond, 2 rue de Crepy. Ags de :
Panhaed, RknaultT, Cottin-Dksoouttm, Dklahayb, Roohet-
SOHNKIDliR, MOES. ^ U © \ :?*> 38.
CHANTILLY (Oise).
WS du Grand-Cond6, av. de la Gare. Closed in 1917. Prices in 1914.
Meals 2. 6. 7 (Mealt h la carte for patsing visitors) Chauffeur 10
Asc @ ^ "S" (wc) Gar IS U ^J* 52. t^ d'Angleterre, r. de Paris and pi. de I'Hdpital. Prices in 1914. Meals
1.25. 8,50. 3,50 Bed-room 4 to 8 Chauffeur 7 ^ 'Q' (wc) Inner
shed free [8] :p 59. |8JL Noguey's Family Hotel, 10 av. de la Gare. Prices in 1914. Meals 1,50.
3,50. 4 (wine not included) Bed-room 4 to 8 Chauffeur 7,50 § "S"
(wc) Inner coach-house [5] ^ 146. ff» MICHELIN STOCK Grigaut, 72 r. du ConrUtdble. 'J^ 1.14.
— MICHELIN STOCK Garage Bourdeau, 1 his r. de Gouvieux. [g] U
© % :f> 1.90. ERMENONVILLE (Oise).
Si de I'Ermitage. ACY-EN-mULTIEN (Oise).
3» Hotel du Cheval-Rouge.
The above information, dating from 1st August 1917, may possibly he no longer exact when this falls under the readers eyes. It would be more prudent therefore before making the tour described in this volume, to consult the latest French edition of the ' Guide Michelin'.
UCSB LIBRAKT
•• OFFICE NATIONAL DU TOURISME
//, Rue de Surine. PARIS (VIII^
The " Office National du Tourisme " was created by the Act of the 8th April 1910, and reorganised in 1917. It enjoys civil privileges and financial autonomy.
It is directed by an Administrative Council chosen by the minister of Public Works.
Its mission is to seek out every means of developing travel ; to urge, and if necessary to take any measure capable of ameliorating the conditions of the transport, circulation and sojourn of tourists.
It co-ordinates the efforts of touring societies and industries, encourages them in the execution of their programmes and stimulates legislative and administra- tive initiative with regard to the development of travel in France.
It promotes understandings between the Public Services, the great Transport Companies, the " Syndi- cats d'lnitiative " and the *' Syndicats Professionnels ".
It organises propaganda in foreign countries ; and incites towards the creation of Travel Inquiry Offices in France and abroad, v^th a view to make known the scenery and monuments of France, as well as the health-giving powers of French mineral waters, spas and bathing places.
ALL INQUIRIES WITH REGARD TO TRAVELLING
SHOULD BE ADDRESSED
TO THE " TOURING-CLUB DE FRANCE "
65, Avenue de la. Grande-Armee, 65 PARIS
THE " TOURING-CLUB DE FRANCE"
. WHAT IS IT? WHAT ARE ITS USES?
The " Touring-Club de France " (founded in 1 890), is at the present time the largest touring Association in the whole world. Its principal aim is to introduce France — this admirable country and one of the loveliest on earth — to French people themselves and to foreigners.
It seeks to develope travel in all its forms, on foot, on horseback, on bicycle, in carriage, motor, yacht or railway, and soon in aeroplane.
Every member of the Association receives a badge and an identity ticket free of charge, as also the
Revue Mensuelle " every month.
Members also have the benefit of special prices in a certain number of affiliated hotels ; and this holds good for the purchase of guide-books and Staff (Etat- major) maps, as well as those of the " Ministere de rinterieur ", the T. C. F., etc. They may insert notices regarding the sale or purchase of travelling requisites, in the " Revue " (1 fr. per Hne). The " Comite des Contentieux " is ready to give them counsel with regard to travelling, and 3000 delegates in all the principal towns are able to give them advice and infor- mation about the curiosities of art or of nature of the neighbourhood, as well as concerning the roads, hotels, motor-agents, garages, etc.
Members are accorded free passage across the fron- tier for a bicycle or motor-bicycle. For a motor-car the Association gives a " Triptyque " ensuring free passage through the " douane ", etc.
ONE TRAVELS BEST IN FRANCE WHEN MEMBER OF THE " TOURINaCLUB DE FRANCE "
See end of volume.
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IN MEMORY |
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OF Tin: MIC.HHLIX KMPLOYKKS |
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AND WORKMEN WHO DIED GLORIOUSLY |
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FOR THEIR f.OUNTRY |
BATTLE OF llIK MARXK
THE OUPiCQ BATTLE-FIELDS
MEAUX — SENITS — CHANTJLLY
Copyright, l;y >[iclielin & (;". 1917.
All rights of translation, adaptation or reproduction (in part or whole), reserved, in all countries.
FOREWORD
For the benefit of tourists who wish to visit the battle-fields and mutilated towns of France we liave tried to produce a work combining a practical guide and a history.
Such a visit should be a pilgrimage, not merely a journey across tlie ravaged land. Seeing is not enough, one must understand: a ruin is more moving when one Ixiiows what has ecnised it; a stretch of country which might seem dull and uninteresting to tlie unenlightened eye, becomes transformed at the thought of the bailies whicli have raged tlicre.
We have therefore prefaced the description of our journeys by a short account of the events which took jilace on the ground covered by this guide, and we have done our best to make this account quite clear by the use of many illustrations and maps.
In the course of the description we give a brief military commentary on the numerous views and panoramas contained in the book.
When we come across a place tliat is interesting either from an archaeological or an artistic point of view, there ivc halt, even though the war has passed it by, that the tourist may realise that it was to preserve this heritage of history and beauty intact, that so many of our Iieroes have fallen.
Our readers will not find any attempt at literary effect in these pages; tlie truth is too beautiful and tragic to be altered for tlie sake of embellishing the story; we have therefore carefully sifted the grcatvolume of evidence available , and selected only that obtained from official documents or reliable eye-witnesses.
This book appears before the end of the war, but the country over which it leads the reader has long been freed. The wealth of illustration in this work allows the intending tourist to make a ]>reliminary trip in imagination, until such time as circumstances permit of his undertaking tlie journey in reality, beneath the sunny skies of France.
HISTORlCiAL PART
IMPORTANT NOTE. — On pages 4 to 14 will be found a short account of the battle of the Ourcq and its preliminaries.
AVe advise tourists to read these eleven pages, or at least to glance at the maps they contain, before making the tour, a description of which com- mences (;n page 18. A clear understanding of the action as a whole is indispensable in order to follow the account of the separate battles with interest.
This perusal will enable the reader to grasp the reason why the battle fought by the Army of Paris has come into history under the name of the Battle of the Ourcq. As will be seen, the struggle took place conside- rably to the west of the river, so we do not lead the tourist right up to its banks, but it was to reach the Valley of the Ourcq that the French fought Willi so much heroism and it was in defending its approaches that the Germans showed such great tenacitv.
HISTORICAL
FRENCH
General Joffre, Cf)inniaiuler-in-Chief.
General Gaij.ikni,
Commanding the intrenched camp of Paris
had under his orders the Gth Army
(General Maunoury)
IMAUXnURY
GALLIENI
COMPONENTS OF THE 6th ARMY
7th Corps \ 14th Act. Uiv. (Gen. de Villaret).
(Gen. Vautier) / 63rd Res. Div. (Gen. Lombard) .
.55th Res. Div. (Gen. Leguay). . 5th Group Res. Div. ' 56th Res. Div.(Gen. de Dartein). (Gen. DE Lamaze) J
' Moroccan brigade (Gen. Ditte) .
45th Algerian Div. (Gen. Drude)
( After liaviii-' fciu;lit in Alsac- were ) cnlci-cMl tM the SoiiiHif on An.-. 1 -'ItUanil took p:ii-t iu al! r\,is-.-. -
f llll'llts.
( After liaviii:^' t'ou,i,'lit in the Ilants- ) (lo-5Ieuse;irrive(i at tlieSomme on j Aug. 29th and tool^ pari in :rll I engagements.
( Arriving Croni Africa toolv ]p:;rt in I all engagemcnt^;.
) Laiiiliiig from Africa, I action Sejit. 8tli.
4th Corps
7th Act. Div. (Gen. de Trenti-
NIAX)
(Gen. Bceixe) | ^^^^ ^^,^^ ^.^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ Lartigue) . |
Leaving- tlio liril Army on Seiit. 2nil, passed iiniler (iiii. Mannourv's orders on tlio .')tli and oiil_\' came into action on tlu' Ttli.
ethGroupRes. Div. j 61st Res. Div. (Gen. Deprez) . (Gen. Ebener) / 62nd Res. Div. (Gen. Ganeval)
Cavalry
I 1st Corps (Gen. Sordet) ( Brigade Gillet ....
/ Suffered severely around Camljrai I and were sent to form up again iu \ the intrenched camp of I'aris. They only came into action on i the 7th and the G2nd div., nhicli
(suffered chiefly, only took part in the pursuit.
/ Tlio cavalry, which greatly suffered 1 in the rotreaf from Cliarlcroi. J onlv jilayed a minor part in tin; battle.
HISTORICAL
BRITISH
Ficld-.Marshal Sir John Frf.xcii Coiiiniaiider-in -Chief
of tlie British Expeditionary Forces.
DOUGLAS HAIG
1st Corps (Lieut. Gen. Sir Douglas Haig)
2nd Corps (Gen. Sir Horace Smith Dorrien)
3rd Corps (Lieut. Gen. Pultexey)
Cavalry Division (Gen. Allenby)
<inco llio 24th of August had coiiio througli Ihc whole retreat o;' t'har- leroi. with moving wing, lighting continuallyagain.st vastly superior forces.
GERMAN
1st Armv : General vox Kluck
I\th Res. Corps ......... . . ...
II nd Act. I This is a p.irt of Kliiek's Army
IV th Act. — . which in its initial adv.inoe foroe<l
2nd Cavalrv division ,' the Allie.<' let't win- into a rapid
„., ■■ I retreat from the .s.unljre.
9tn — — \
1st — — of the Guards ........
vox KLUCK
HISTORICAL
THE FIRST DAY OF SEPTEIVIBER, 1914
EXPLANATORY
SKETCH
OF POSITIONS
J> THE MOnMNG
The French attack, which has been called the battle of Chaiieioi. having failed on the 22-24th August, General Joffre promptly broke off the engage- ment and on August 25th ordered a general retreat until such time as, the reforming of the French forces being completed and a more favourable occasion presenting itself, it should be possible to check and then drive back the German armies.
The following was the generalissimo's plan : to mass troops on the left which should attempt to outflank the German right, while a general attack (or at least a stubborn resistance) was maintained on the rest of the front.
On August 27th the 6th Army, entrusted with the outflanking movement, was constituted, as shown on pages 4 and 5, and placed under the command of General INIaunoury. It was formed in the Somme from drafts taken from the Eastern armies and brought to the scene of operations by means of a clever railway organisation begun on August 24th.
On September 1st, the Gth army occupied tlie Bresles, Clermont. Sacy-le- Grand and Verberie line. The 4th British division formed a cor.tinualion on the right.
The Germans, masters of Compiegne, attacked the British on the Ver- berie— Nery line, which yielded. Maunoury then ordered the retreat to be continued. But the columns marching towards the South had to avoid being outflanked. The 56th division, the Moroccan brigade and one cavalry division were ordered to cover the Senlis — Creil — Chantilly gaj) as long as necessary. The ^Moroccan brigade took up its covering position on the Pont-Sainte-Maxence, JNIont-rHveque line. The 111th brigade of the 56th division was supporting Chamant and the 112th in reserve west of Senlis; the cavalry was in front of the Moroccans.
During the day. the Germans, repulsing the French cavalry and the 4lh British division, reached Roberval and Rully; the Franco-British line passed through Pont-Sainte-Maxcncc. Mont-ri'ivcque, Montepilloy and Fiesnoy.
EXPLANATORY
SKETCH
OF POSITIO! S
IN THE EVENING
HISKIIUCAI.
THE SECOND DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 1914
POSITIONS
IN THE EVtNING
The following tasks were entrusted to the 56th division : — until mid-day — to hold yesterday's positions facing east, in order to protect the Creil — Chantilly line; from mid-day until G o'clock in the evening to prevent the Germans from passing out of Senlis towards the south.
In the morning there was hot lighting between the French batteries placed on the heights north-east of Senlis and the batteries of the IVth German corps. Towards 10 o'clock the British evacuated the dominating position of Slontepilloy. The Germans immediately took possession of it and esta- blished their howitzer batteries, the fire of which, directed by aeroplanes, considerably hampered the French artillery.
After 11 o'clock the covering troops began to fall back under the enemies' fire which followed them as far as Senlis and was replied to until the last moment by the French batteries, and several of these sutTered severely. IMcanwhile, the 112th brigade took possession of the line of defence hastily made south of Senlis. This position comprised two lines of trenches dug on either side of the " route nationale " su])porlcd by two machine gun sections and an artillery group which, established north-west of Mont I'l^vcque, countered the German gunners at Montepilloy. At 4 o'clock the last eche- lons which passed out of SenUs, lighting, were closely followed by the Ger- man advance guard which was immediately subjected to a fierce fusillade.
The Germans retired precipitately and we shall read further on, in the description of the burnings and murders at Senlis, how they took revenge for this unex- pected resistance.
An hour and a half later an attack was launch- ed against the ;^61st, which held the lines of trenches. The Germans came out of Senlis push- ing a group of civilians in front of them. The French troops ceased firing when they heard the shrieks of these hostages, but unfortunately some of the latter had already been killed and wounded.
The fight lasted about half an hour; a counter- attack by the 350th infantry regiment, placed in reserve in the forest of Pontarnie, sent the Germans back into Senlis, and the 112lh bri- gade, its covering mission accomplished, retired from the Senlis — Borest front.
In the evening, the (Uh army occupied Ihe Meru, Xeuilly-cn-Thelle, Mortetimtaine line.
AR] 1.1 N )MMANDn
CiTH i;iv.,-.ioS
THE THIRD DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 1914
IIISTOmCAL
POSITIONS IN THE tVENING
(ii;X. DITTi:
( OMMANDING
ailE MOROCCAN
BUIGADE
The 6th army continued its retreat obliquely towards the south-east, in order to secure the defence of the north-cast sector of the intrenched camp of Paris, under General Gallieni's command, himself under the supreme command of General Joffre. The active collaboration of these two great chiefs was one of the important factors in the victory of the Marne.
After long and painful marching, in overpowering heat, the 6th army occupied the Iverny, Dammartin-cn-Goele, Le Mesnil-Aubry line. During the day Gallieni published the famous proclamation : Army of Paris, Inhabitants of Paris. The members of the Government o/ the Republic have left Paris to give a fresh impetus to the national defence. I have received orders to defend Paris against the invader: tlicse orders 1 shall carry out to the end.
The anxiety that had gripped the French nation since the crushing advance of Kliick's army had been made known was now intense. ^Vould Paris fall? The German Grand Command must have been vastly tempted to push on towards the coveted town, but the menace of the Allied army still existed, so it was decided to first destroy the Allied forces, before turning upon Paris, which would then fall like a ripe pear.
Consequently, the German Ilnd and IVth active corps were despatched towards the south-east and crossed the Ourcq at Lizy and Marcuil, in pursuit of the British army. The German IVth reserve corps had reached the Luzarclies- Mortefontaine line and advance patrols were seen near Ecouen, 13 km. from the gates of I'aris, hut the fascination of the capital had to be resisted and the l\'lh corps in its turn jiroceeded obliquely towards the I'ast to protect
the flank of Kliick's army.
There will probably be arguments formally a year as to whether the German stall was right or wrong in giving up the direct advance on Paris. However that may be, von Kliick certainly did not expect such a violent attack from the Army of Paris. " There was but one General ", he declared, " who, against all rules, would have ven- tured to carry the fight so far beyond his fine of defence; unluckily for me, that man was Gallieni ".
Indeed, from that day, September 3rd, the turningof the German right was foreseen by Gallieni, who immediately pointed it out to Joffre and suggested making a flank attack.
HISTORICAL
THE FOURTH AND FIFTH DAYS OF SEPTEMBER, i9i4
I'o.-nioxs
ON THE EVKMNC Ol- THE DTIl
On the day of the 1th. Joffre, after communicating with GalUeni. consi- dered the conditions favourable for renewing the offensive and decided to begin a general engagement on the 6th.
His instructions enjoined upon all the available forces of Die (ilh .\rmy to 1)6 between Lizy-sur-Ourcq and May-en-Multien on the "ith in the evening, ready to cross the Ourcq at the rear of Kliick's army.
On the 4th the army prepared for battle: on the 5th it strove to reach the positions assigned to it; whereupon ensued a fierce encounter with the IVth Reserve Corps. After violent fighting for the possession of Monthyon and Penchard, the Lamazc group spent the night on the Saint-Soupplet.s — Montge — Iverny — Charny line. The 7th corps took up its position on the left and only came in for a few advance-guard actions at the norlh of Saint- Soupplets; but it constituted a menace to the IVth corp's flank and forced the latter to evacuate the Monthyon — Penchard line during the night.
The British army, according to the generalissimo's instructions, was to occupy, on the .^th in the evening, a line running from north to south, from Changis (East of Meaux) to Coulommiers, ready to make an attack east- wards and take the German forces in the flank. But Field-Marshal French's troops were exhausted by the painful retreat which, since the 24th August, had compelled them to cover 40 to 50 km. o day, fighting all the time there- fore their volte-face was but slowly carried out and in the evening they were no further than the Vaudny — Pezarches — Haute-P>uillc — Grand Morin line.
Thus neither the Cith Army nor the British Army succeeded in occujning the appointed positions for the opening of the general attack, which made the enveloping movement far more difficult to carry out.
10
HISTORICAL
THE SIXTH DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 6914
POSITIONS IN THE EVENING
The special aim for tliis day, on the Frcncli side, was a frontal attack and the outflanking on its right of the German IVth reserve corps.
At dawn the French right (Lamaze group) seized Saint-Soupplets and Monthyoii; at 9 o'clock it reached the Chambry — Barcy — Oissery front; but on the left wing, engaged in the outflanking movement, the 7th corps met (near Etavigny) a part of the German llnd active corps, which, drawing away from the British army, hastened by forced marches to the assistance of the IVth reserve corps.
This was the beginning of von Kliick's clever manoeuvre; he saw the danger threatening his army from JNIaunoury's flank attack and took advan- tage of the exhausted condition of the British to throw all his forces on the 6th Army, bring it to a standstill and so avoid disaster.
At the end of the day the French occu]iicd the Chambry — Marcilly — Puisieux — Acyen-Multien line.
The British Army went on straightening itself out and reached the Crecy- en-Brie — Goulommiers — Choisy en-Brie line.
On the Gth the army received JofTre's historic proclamation :
.4/ the commencement of a battle on which depends the safely of our Counlri/, it is necessari] to remind everyone that there must be no lookin'j bad:.
Every effort must be made to attack and drive off the enemy. Am/ Iroojis, which can no longer advance, musl at all costs keep what ground lliry have won. and die rather than fall back. In existing circumstances, no ivcakncss (an be lokralcd.
HISTORICAL
11
THE SEVENTH DAY OF SEPTEMBER, I9!4
POMl 1I1N>
IN iiiL i.v;:mn<
Since morning llic struggle liad been resumed but tl:c French now began to feel the eflects of the German heavy artillery established between Var- reddes and May-en-Multien, out of range of the 75's. and their progress was retarded. On their right the fighting spread around Marcilly, Barcy and Chambry: on their left the 7th corps, extended towards Villers-Saint- Genest by the 61st reserve division that Gallieni had sent as a reinforcement, had gained a footing on the plateau of Etavigny; at Puisieux it joined the Lamaze group.
At the request of Sir .John Frencli. who feared for his connection with the 6th Army, the 8th division of the 4lh corps engaged the Germans occupying the woods of ?kleaux. south of the Marnc.
At the end of the day the French still had hopes of outflanking the German right so long as the latter did not receive reinforcements. But the IVth German active corps, escaping in its turn from the British Army, recrossed the Alarne and reinforced tlie two corps already engaged. In its turn it was trying to outflank the 6tli Army on the left.
Von Kluck.'to mask the withdrawal of the Ilnd and IVth corps, deployed in front of the British army his three cavalry divisions, backed up by artil- lery and infantry detachments. This rearguard fought stubbornly in order, if possible, to allow the three German corps of the Ourcq to crush the 6th Army before the British advance should become a decisive factor in the retreat.
In the evening the British occupied the Maisoncelles— Coulommiers — Choisv-en-Brie line.
12
HISTORICAL
THE EIGHTH DAY OF SEPTEMBER, y9§4
IMJM 1 IIINS I III 1 \1.MNG
SEX. 1)1. I.AMA/I
1M^IA^ l:l U
On tlic 7tli, the 7th division anived in Paris and had to be sent during the night to ^huinoury's left.
To tlie great astonishment of the Parisians all the taxi-cabs left their garages and went towards the eastern suburbs of the city.
The police pulled up all those already hired and their passengers, left stranded in the road, cheered when they heard the reason.
GOO cabs made the journey to Xanteuil twice during the night, with five men in each. " A civilian's idea ", as Gallieni called it. The rest of the di- vision went by rail, the artillery followed by road.
This 7th division took up a position between the 01st division and the 7th corjis but the arrival of the IVth German active corps, released from the Hrilish front, more than neutralized the elTect of this reinforcement.
On the whole front the struggle was fierce : in the centre the 7th corps and the 63rd re- serve division (especially the latter), fought with unflinching firmness around Acy; on the right I he Lamaze group, with the 45th division from Africa, launched violent attacks against the Htrepilly— Varrcddes line, tut with only par- tial success.
In the afternoon of the same day the Bri- llsh Army, driving back the German rearguard .rter fierce fighting at La Tretoire and at Signy-Signets, crossed the Pelit Morin and reached the Ferte-sous-Jouarre, Viels-Maisons front. The Sth division of the 4th French corps reached the outskirts of Trilport.
A German officer wrote in his notebook on the Sill :
'I'lw Colnni'l General von Kliick Ims inspected the (lulposls. I eanuhl sight of him. His eyes, nsualli] so bri'jlit, are dull. He lolio is generalli/ so alert, speal<s in discourened tones. He is thorougldii depressed.
HISTORICAL
13
THE NINTH DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 1914
PI.IMIIONS
JN THE I;V1N1N(,
On this day the battle of the Ourcq reached its climax.
Under the pressure of the French right and the threatening advance of the British, tlie Germans were obliged to retire from the Etrepilly — Var- reddes line; in the centre (in the afternoon) the artillery evacuated the Trocy plateau towards the north. To facilitate this retreat, von Kliicl: ordered the lYth active corps debouching from Betz to make a \i)leiit counter attack upon the French left, whicli bent beneath the shock.
Maimoury then called back the Sth division from its position south of the Marne, and Gallieni sent him the 62nd division as a reinforcement. Never- theless the situation remained critical and the left of the 6th Army was in great danger of being turned and broken. The troops were in a terrible state of fatigue : orders were asked for an eventual retreat on Paris. But ]Maunoury would not admit this as a possibility and, faithful to the generalissimo's instructions, gave orders to " Die rather than give way. "■
The night passed in great anxiety and ended with a most unexpected event. The next morning, the French saw that the Germans had abandoned their positions and were hurriedh' retreating to the north-east.
Von Kliick's decision was caused by the progress of the British Army which crossed the Marne between Luzancy and Nogent-l'Artaud on the 9th, and in the night crossed the river at Ferte-sous-Jouaric, as also by the intense resistance of Maunuury's army; he was in danger of being caught, as it were, in pincers
Victory thus resleil with the 6th Army. The German General's clev- er manoeuvre had prevented the success of the enveloping move- ment planned by Joffre and Gal- lieni, a movement which would have brought about a German rout ; but the obstinacy and spirit of sacrifice of the 6th army had forced von Kliick to a hurried retreat, the effect of which was felt by echelons along the whole front. Paris and France were saved.
gi:n. boei-i.e commanding
THE -JtH corps RECEIVING AS aviator's REPO.-.T
IIISTOIUCAL
FROM THE lOTH TO THE J3TH DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 1914
Po-;iTiONS
lit I'ORE
AND AKTIR
THE MARNE
Provins o Franchet d'Esperey
Lang'« ''
On the 10th, Maunoury's splendid order of the day was read to the troops:
Daring five whole days, without lull or interruption, the 6th Army has sustained battle against a powerful adversary whose moral had hitherto been exalted by success The fight has been hard ; the losses by gunfire and the exhaustion due to lacfc of sleep {and sometimes of food) have surpassed any- thing that could be imagined. You have borne all with a courage, a frmness and an endurance to which words are powerless to do justice.
Comrades, the Commander-in-Chief asked us, in the name of our Country, to do more than our duty, your answer to his appeal has surpassed all tfiat seemed possible. Thanlis to you. Victory crowns our flag. Xow that you have known the glorious satisfaction of her coming you will never let her escape.
As to myself, any good I may have done has lieen rewarded by the greatest Iwnour that has been given to me during my long career, that of commanding men like you.
From the 10th to the 13th of September, the IBritish and the 6th Army followed close on the heels of the retreating German Army, until the latter took a stand upon positions prepared in advance. The above explanatory sketch shows the ground covered during these days of the Marne, which will remain among the greatest dates in the histor\ ol the world (1).
GEN. DKLDt
COMMANDING
1 HE
45th division
GEN.
DE VILLARET
COMMANDING
THE
1-ItII DIVISION
(l) For the delaileil account of the bittle of the Ourcq, in La Renaissance of Sept. 4th 1915.
article by General Bounal
HISTORICAL 15
The reader who has made himself acquainted witli the preceding pages will have acquired a clear and concise idea of the battle of the Ourcq.
We must not lose sight of the fact that these battles, however great their importance, onl\- occupied a fraction of the enormous firing line which extended as far as Verdun and of which ail the units were inter-dependent.
For the greater convenience of tourists, we have divided this immense battle of the Marne into three parts, and have described each one in a volume which will be used during the two day's motoring needed for the visit to each section of the theatre of operations.
The reader now holds the first volume, in which he has seen the right of Kliick's army forced to retreat under the combined efforts of ]\Iavmoury and French.
The second volume, The Marshes of Saint-Gond, shows the recoil transmitted from end to end of Kliick's army front. The right of the adjoining army (Biilow's), became exposed; it could not resist Franchet d'Fsperey's furious onslaughts and broke; its left, the flank of which thus became vulnerable, then gave way and carried with it the adjoining army of Hansen.
BiJlow and Hansen therefore gave up the hope of crushing in the French centre. Had they succeeded, at the initial stages of the battle, in breaking through at the place where Foch was in conniiand, Gallieni's efforts on the (Jurcq would have been rendered useless; but Foch's fierce energy finally overcame the German assaults.
In the third volume, The Pass of Revigny, we see how the ebbing tide took one after another the armies of Albrecht von Wiirtemberg and the Crown Prince, after all their efTorts had been shattered against the stub- born resistance of Langle de Gary and Sarrail.
Thus is sketched the picture of the battle of the Marne, won by these same soldiers who had just suffered a reverse in the battle on the frontier, and effected. " delirious with fatigue ", a retreat which is without prece- dent in history, reaching a depth of 200 kilometres in ten days. The in- domitable spirit of the Generalissimo, his clear and judicious plans, carried out by eminent army leaders in close collaboration, above all the super- liuman heroism of the troops, these are the factors in what has been called the Wliracle of the Marne.
16
OUTLINE OF THE TOUR
OUTLINE OF THE TOUR
This tour, of which a plan is given below, covers the ground on wiiich tiie fate of Paris was decided in September 1914.
In tlie course of the journe}^ the traveller will live over again the anxious moment when the Germans, having arrived within gunshot of the capital, had to decide whether to continue their irresistible march on Paris or attempt Jirst to put the allied army out of action: he will then reconstruct the tragic struggle which for five days confronted Gallieni, Maunoury and von Kliick.
The country traversed has the varied scenery of the Ile-de-France ; from the vast forests of Valois, the tourist will come to the fertile up-lands of Brie, intersected by lovely valleys. He will become acquainted with Chan- tilly, the great Conde's town, afterwards Marshal Joflre's Headquarters; Scnlis, a jewel of ancient France, wliich narrowly escaped the fate of Louvain; IMeaux, with its cathedral, its old mills, and the ruins left by the war in the surrounding villages.
This is the war pilgrimage which should be made by all Parisians and all tourist spassing through Paris who have a day or two to spare.
Ognon Chamam^ ^*>^^| QUTUNE OF THE TOOF r^ ,-11 ^!iri2^^?^- Monlep.lloy i|
ChLintilK/;'^"'*^Senlis ^ •li ^
* ^-^ A Baron
^Ponlarme ' V Chaahs | Betz^^*^
La Chapeile-en-Serval i X r n i \ Boiillarm^ ,
■^ • ' lErmenonvi He i guuudi^ ^
Luzarches ■ ^ ^^ Acyjr
■ ' -^^^Le Plessis-Belleville r\
■ i \\ // .jV.ncy
■ I \X Puisieux^ /^ Le Mesnil-Aubry ♦ I \ ^ If
* '■ \ Marcilly 7 A^t^Trocy
/L™ ■; St-Soupple,s> Jp/EtreSNGue-a-
• '"-^hy^"!^^^^ >^T— • I , f ^% Cnambry
4^ 1 A \^^^ fVarreddes
* ! j ^^Penchard it
Pierrefille ^ ^ Chaucon^V^
I / Villecarisis ' — ^^ 'MeaUX
I St Denis ♦ ^,r^*-'^^l Cla^e '
R <r Le Bourget ^^^^ '- - - - - - - ■-- -'
Vj ^^^^ *'
aifess^ ^^^^^^ Bondy f
\^ Chelles «■»._,■» ^B,#«-fc"*':^Couilly
Pj^RISlNeuilly-sur-Marne ^w** Lagny
I •*'^
Itinerary of tho journey.
Altornafo Koiitcs (seo p. 18).
liouiidary lines of the w.:\y iiisrrt< .1 lu t.vei n p. 82 and 83.
Bounilary lini .s of the iiia;i iiiserteil Ixt.vccn ii. 08 .and C9.
TOURIST SKCTIOX
18 Pr.AC.TlCAI. IM ()n:\IATION
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
ITINERARY FOR MOTORISTS AND IVIOTORCYCLISTS
(Si'e nuip pa,LJ;c ICi.)
This lour is cotniJiiscd in tlic section Paris - Xord of the Michcliii map ScalclpiOO.OOO Ih {see scale of kilonidrcs on Frcncli map).
The circuit is ;il)out 238 km. and can be covered in two days :
1st. day. — Leaving Paris in tlie morning tliruugli the Porte dc la (^ha- pelle by N. 1 wc cross Saint-Denis, then passing Pierrcfitte turn to the right by N. 10 wliich leads straight to Chantilly {'.i\ km. from the gates of Paris) through Ecouen, Le Mesnil-Aubry and Luzarchcs.
We visit the town {sec ]>. 22-36). Lunch either at Chantilly (palatial hotel) or at Senlis (good hotel) 9 km. from Chantilly. Afternoon, visit Senlis (/;. :i'J-67); dine and sleep at Senlis or Chantilly.
TonrisLs who wish to see the whole of llie Caslie and park of C.hantillij must clioose a Thursday, Saturday or Sunday (see p. 31) and devote a part oj the afternoon to this I'isil.
2nd. day. — Leave Senlis or Chantilly in llie uiorning and reach INIcaux by the route given p. ()8-75. The distance from Senlis is ()5 km. (by the direct route only 37 km.). Lunch at MeauK (good hotel).
Afternoon — the tour of the Ourcq as indicated on p. 81-1 18. This tour may be increased from .'33 to ',)2 km., according to the time the traveller has at his disposal or the speed of his car.
Dinner either at Meaux or in Paris, reaching the latter by X. 3 (38 km.) passing through Claj'e, Villeparisis and Bondy.
Alternate routes. — Tourists who consider the second day's distance too great, as planned above, can leave Senlis in the afternoon and thus dine and sleep at Meaux on the flrst day. They can visit Meaux in the morning of the second day, lunch there and make the tour of the Ourc([ in the after- noon, returning for dinner to Meaux or to Paris.
If one cannot dispose of two consecutive days, the visit to Meaux and the tour of the Ourcq can be made in one day, going by N. 34 to Couilly, through Ghefles and Lagny, then by N. 3() to Meaux and returning from Meaux to Paris by N. 3, via Claye, Villeparisis and Bondy. Some other day (Thursday, Saturday or Sunday) one can see Senlis and Chantilly, going by N. 17, from Paris to Senlis via Le Bourget, Louvres, La (^hapelle-cn-Serval, Pontarm^, and returning by N. 16 from Chantilly through licoucn, Luzar- ches, Le Mesnil-Aubry, then by X. 1 through Pierrcfitte and Saint-Denis.
ROUTE FOR CYCLISTS
Enthusiastic cyclists can make the tour indicated above, calculating the number of days according to tiieir average mileage. They can also break their journey by hrst visiting Senlis and Chantilly, either cycling or going by rail (gare du Xord), choosing, if possible, a Thursday or a Sunday. Senlis can be seen in the morning, Chantilly in the afternoon and the return to Paris made by an evening train. On another day one can go to Meaux in the nnrning (gare de I'Est), make the partial or the entire tour of the Ourcq, return to dinner at Meaux and reach Paris by an evening train.
Important note.
l''or details concerning hotels and garages sec inside of covrr (front half)
VISrr TO THE LOCALITIES
ill which wtTc- enacted the })reliiiiiiiary sceues of the
BATTLE OE THE OURCQ
iVuiu the ist to the 5tli September, i <j i t
CHANTILLY
20
CHANTILLY
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.""^ ^^^^^^kn^^^^H^^I^^H |
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«i ^iBBIt^"*' |
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7^ |
'Photo by Andre Schclc/icr
GENERAL VIEW OF CHAXTILLY
iPhotn by Andre Schelchen
GENERAL VIEW OF THE CASTLE
CHANTILLY
(See luaj) on i)recc(lin;_' ])a£^e.)
SIGHTS \A/ORTH SEEING
Headquarters of General Joffre (/). 22-2:',). the Castle, Conde Miiseum,
Park (/). 24-:;H).
ORIGIN AND mAiN HISTORICAL FACTS
Chantilly derives its name from that of the Gallo-Roman Canlilhis, who was the first to establish himself in the locality. The Castle (a fortress during the Middle Ages) jjassed to the family of Montmorency in the xvth Century and in the xviilh to that of Conde. These two illustrious families brought Chantilly to a height of sjilendour which made it a rival of the royal residences.
In 1830 the due d'Aumale succeeded the last of the Condes and at his death (1897) bequeathed the domain, with the Conde Museum, which he had installed in the Castle (see p. 21-36), to the " Institut de France '.
The town itself, built in the xviith Century, was for a long time dependent on the Castle. In our day it has become a big centre for horse training and racing. The great race meetings in ;\Iay. July and September attract huge crowds.
CHANTILLY IN 1914-1916
The Germans, coming from Creil, entered Chantilly on the 3rd of Sep- tember 1914 and occupied it for several days. The Mayor was at once seized as hostage but did not suffer the same tragic fate as the Mayor of Senlis. The troops were billeted at the Castle (.sec p.. 28).
After the victory of the Marne, Chantilly became the seat of General Joffre's hcadcjuartcrs and remained so until the end of 191().
ITINERARY RECOMMENDED FOR VISITING CHANTILLY
Arriving by the Paris road, the tourist ivill pass under the raihvay bridge, then 600 yds. further on turn to the right and come out on to the " Pelouse" (iMwn). Turning round the Grand Comle Hotel on its left, he folloirs the Boulevard d' Aumale as far as the Maison de Joffre, sfioirn in the photograph below.
JOFFRE
LEAVING
GEN'ER.^L
HEADQUARTERS
flMANTH.I.Y
23
.lolIrL- li\ecl lierc until he was made ^Marshal of France.
The hundreds of officers and secretaries employed in the tremendous work incumbent on the Generalissimo were lodged in the Grand Conde hotel, near which the tourist has just passed. In contrast with this buzzing hive, .Jolfre"s house seemed the embodiment of silence and meditation.
Only two orderly ofTicers lived with the Generalissimo and his door was strictly forbidden to all unsuiumoned visitors, whoever they might be.
On leaving his office JofTre had the daily relaxation of a walk in the forest near by. It was thanks to the strict routine he subjected himself lo that the Generalissimo was able to carry the crushing weight of his responsibility without faltering. \Ve shall see. however, when comparing the peace time photograph given on p. I with that of p. 22 that these years of war have counted as double.